An Urban Wander from King's Cross to Hackney and Back Again

 Up in London recently for an evening event, I decided to travel up early to make the most of the day. I didn't have any real plans, other than to pay a visit to Atlantis Records in Hackney to fee my vinyl addiction, and to return to the Parcel Yard in King's Cross for my evening event. So, I decided to walk to Hackney from King's Cross and back again, in a loop of some description. The weather was a bit grey to start with but fortunately it brightened up along the wander. Below you can see a few pictures I took along the way.

First up it's one of my favourite subjects, ghostsigns. This ghostsign can be found over what is now a Nando's, on York Way, just to the north of King's Cross station. Pleasing that the old signage has been left intact. I wonder what sort of REFRESHMENTS it would have provided, perhaps Italian given that it was the Celestino Bertolini refreshment Rooms, which operated from 1916 to the 1960's.

Ghostsign for Celestino Bertolini's Refreshment Rooms, York Way, King's Cross, London

Next up, on the Caledonian Road, we have an old shop sign for SIMMONS DINING ROOMS, with some wonderful, green ceramic tiling either side of the shop front. Still going by the same name, but judging by the signage that can be seen just below the Simmons banner, which reads COCKTAILS DISCO OPEN TIL 3 FRIDAY& SATURDAY, I imagine this is no longer a dining room but more of a trendy cocktail bar.

Old sign for Simmonds Dining Rooms, Caledonian Road, King's Cross, London

As I made my way towards Hackney, I came across another old sign, or ghostsign, for the engineering company, C. LINDLEY & CO., LTD on Englefield Road. According to an old advertisement I found they provided bolts, screws, studs, nuts and pins for the aircraft, motor, shipbuilding and general engineering trades.

Old sign for C. Lindley & Co Ltd., Englefield Road, London N1

Just a bit further along the Englefield Road, on the corner with De Beauvoir Road, is another ghost sign for COLLINS & HAYES, which as far as I can tell was a factory for the production of sofas. If it's the same company then it would appear that they still exist but are now in Nottinghamshire.

Ghostsign for Collins & Hayes, De Beauvoir Road, London N1

There's no doubt as to what purpose the next sign would have served. This is the premises of the former pub THE DE BEAUVIOR ARMS on Stamford Road. Closed for business in 2004 it is now used for residential purposes.

Old sign for the former pub, The De Beauvoir Arms, Stamford Road, London N1

My wander now took me to Dalston, not an area I have really spent much time in previously, but come up with this delight. This is the former building of REEVES & SONS LTD, ARTISTS' COLOUR MANUFACTURER. in Ashwin Street, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

After a quick look around Atlantis records, and picking up a handful of records, I started to make my way back. Ideally I would have liked to spend more time in Hackney but time was not on my side so I probably on scratched the surface. I was pleased however to have spotted this wonderful ghostsign before I left. I can't quite make out the top line, possibly A.HANWELL, but despite searching through my usual sources of London ghostsigns I cannot find any mention of this one. The rest of the sign though is quite clear.

HOUSE FURNISHER

ESTABLISHED OVER 50 YEARS

LOWEST CASH PRICES

EASY TERMS CAN BE ARRANGED

Ghostsign, Mare Street, Hackney, London

When I came across this next building, I assumed that given the tiling and windows that it was a former pub. However after a bit of research it seems to have been the premises of the City of Dublin Bottling Co Ltd.

Former premises of the City of Dublin Bottling Co Ltd., Croston Street, Hackney, London E8

As my walking time, and my legs, were both now running out, I now headed to the Regents Canal for a more direct route back to King's Cross. I'd walked past the former Hackney /Bethnal Green gasworks plenty of times previously but they never cease to impress me. I'm not sure how much longer they will still be in their current state as there seems to be a new, large development on the horizon. It seems like the external structure may be retained in some form, like the ones at King's Cross (see further down this page). It's a bit of a shame but better I guess than losing them completely. For anyone with a thirst to know more about London's lost power stations and gasworks, check out this excellent book by Ben Pedroche.

The Hackney / Bethnal Green gasholders

Heading further along the canal is part of the 2020 controversial art installation by the architect Jaimie Shorten. Controversial because of apparent lack of planning permission. Originally there were 5 sharks in the installation and they were located in a different place in the canal. It seems this is the only one still on display.

Part of the Shark art installation on the Regent's Canal, by architect Jaimie Shorten

And so, as the light was fading and my feet were aching, I finally made it back to King's Cross. As mentioned above, here is one of the preserved / redeveloped gasholders at King's Cross. Again it's a shame they cannot be seen through, but again this is better than them being demolished.

Repurposed gasholder, King's Cross London

Finally, the last picture, at the very end of my wander, a ghostsign in Coaldrop Yard for the COAL OFFICE. This whole area has been massively redeveloped over the past few years, from once was a huge industrial area consisting mainly of disused and unoccupied buildings, to a thriving cultural, eating and shopping district. The majority of the old buildings have been kept in some form or other, which again is pleasing to see. More about the history and dramatic transformation of the King's Cross area in The King's Cross Story, 200 Years of History in the Railway Lands.

Ghostsign for COAL OFFICE in Coaldrop Yard, King's Cross, London

Once again, many thanks for taking time to read my rambling wanders, always In Search of Space.

An Urban Wander from Shoreditch to Hackney (part 3 of 3, Hackney Gasworks)

At last, here's the third and final installment of my, now not so recent, urban wander from Shoreditch to Hackney. Whilst parts one and two covered Shoreditch to Hoxton and Hoxton to Cambridge Heath, this one focuses on a more specific area, the Hackney gasworks. I had no intention of ending up here, must just be remarkable coincidence that my recent passion for power stations and gasworks, inspired by this wonderful book, guided me unwittingly to this location.

With a construction of this size, naturally it was visible from some distance away. Having not been here before I wasn't quite sure how to approach it and whether I could get much closer.

Hackney gasworks, London E2

As I headed towards it I passed a derelict building in the distance. I was a little nervous of straying into what was clearly someone's property to get a decent picture, so had to make do with a couple of distance shots. With the yellow Ford Capri in the foreground I almost felt I could have been entering the set of an episode of the Sweeney or the Professionals.

Derelict building and Ford Capri, Hackney, London E2

 Derelict building and Ford Capri, Hackney, London E2

I was getting closer to the gasworks, but they were still obscured by more modern buildings.

 Hackney gasworks, London E2

Finally as I neared the canal, I found a much better view, and as luck would have it, was just as the sun was beginning to set.

Sun setting over Hackney gasworks, London E2

Sun setting over Hackney gasworks, London E2

Sun setting over Hackney gasworks, London E2

I would have liked to have had time to cross the canal and see what views of the gasworks there were from the other side, but that will have to wait for another day. As I made my way back towards the city, I came across this tower on the road between Cambridge Heath and Bethnal Green stations. Unfortunately I couldn't find anything about it, either when I was there nor afterwards. If anyone knows, please let me know.

Unidentified tower, Cambridge Heath road, London E2

Unidentified tower, Cambridge Heath road, London E2

    

An Urban Wander from Shoreditch to Hackney (part 2 of 3, Hoxton to Cambridge Heath)

Later than I had originally hoped for, but here at last is the second installment of my Shoreditch to Hackney wander. This part covers the drift from Hoxton towards Cambridge Heath.

Until recently I'd never much cared for graffiti or street art, but often it can brighten up an otherwise dreary area. I particularly liked this hare.

Street art on Hackney Road, London

Most ghost signs generally are written left to right, so it's always a pleasant surprise to find one with vertical lettering. Unfortunately I am at a loss to work out what this one says, other than:

?? ING ?? ES

Also, and this may simply be my imagination, but there almost seems to be an eerie image of a face in the brickwork to the right of the lettering.

Ghost sign just off the Hackney Road, London

Not quite sure what to make of this next picture. I had half a mind not to include it, but it does hold a certain curiosity. The ornate brickwork around the door frame, the basic graffiti, the more elaborate street art in the centre and to the right of the door, and what looks like a daffodil, lonely discarded in front of the boarded up door.

Boarded up doorway on Hackney Road, London

No doubt about what this ghost sign says:

PLYWOOD

IMPORTERS

Ghost sign on Hackney Road, London

This next ghost sign is a double, if not perhaps a triple, and appears to have been revealed (not sure how recently) by the removal of a more modern advertising board.

The deeper ghost sign reads

CABINET MAKERS

UPHOLSTERERS

whereas the more recent, red one reads

MODERN ????

???????

UPHOLSTERERS &

????????

Ghost sign on Minerva Street, London E2

If anyone missed the first part of thos urban wander then it can be found at An Urban Wander from Shoreditch to Hackney (part 1 of 3, Shoreditch to Hoxton).

Stay tuned folks, the third and final installment will be posted in the next few days.