An Urban Wander from King's Cross to Hackney and Back Again

 Up in London recently for an evening event, I decided to travel up early to make the most of the day. I didn't have any real plans, other than to pay a visit to Atlantis Records in Hackney to fee my vinyl addiction, and to return to the Parcel Yard in King's Cross for my evening event. So, I decided to walk to Hackney from King's Cross and back again, in a loop of some description. The weather was a bit grey to start with but fortunately it brightened up along the wander. Below you can see a few pictures I took along the way.

First up it's one of my favourite subjects, ghostsigns. This ghostsign can be found over what is now a Nando's, on York Way, just to the north of King's Cross station. Pleasing that the old signage has been left intact. I wonder what sort of REFRESHMENTS it would have provided, perhaps Italian given that it was the Celestino Bertolini refreshment Rooms, which operated from 1916 to the 1960's.

Ghostsign for Celestino Bertolini's Refreshment Rooms, York Way, King's Cross, London

Next up, on the Caledonian Road, we have an old shop sign for SIMMONS DINING ROOMS, with some wonderful, green ceramic tiling either side of the shop front. Still going by the same name, but judging by the signage that can be seen just below the Simmons banner, which reads COCKTAILS DISCO OPEN TIL 3 FRIDAY& SATURDAY, I imagine this is no longer a dining room but more of a trendy cocktail bar.

Old sign for Simmonds Dining Rooms, Caledonian Road, King's Cross, London

As I made my way towards Hackney, I came across another old sign, or ghostsign, for the engineering company, C. LINDLEY & CO., LTD on Englefield Road. According to an old advertisement I found they provided bolts, screws, studs, nuts and pins for the aircraft, motor, shipbuilding and general engineering trades.

Old sign for C. Lindley & Co Ltd., Englefield Road, London N1

Just a bit further along the Englefield Road, on the corner with De Beauvoir Road, is another ghost sign for COLLINS & HAYES, which as far as I can tell was a factory for the production of sofas. If it's the same company then it would appear that they still exist but are now in Nottinghamshire.

Ghostsign for Collins & Hayes, De Beauvoir Road, London N1

There's no doubt as to what purpose the next sign would have served. This is the premises of the former pub THE DE BEAUVIOR ARMS on Stamford Road. Closed for business in 2004 it is now used for residential purposes.

Old sign for the former pub, The De Beauvoir Arms, Stamford Road, London N1

My wander now took me to Dalston, not an area I have really spent much time in previously, but come up with this delight. This is the former building of REEVES & SONS LTD, ARTISTS' COLOUR MANUFACTURER. in Ashwin Street, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

After a quick look around Atlantis records, and picking up a handful of records, I started to make my way back. Ideally I would have liked to spend more time in Hackney but time was not on my side so I probably on scratched the surface. I was pleased however to have spotted this wonderful ghostsign before I left. I can't quite make out the top line, possibly A.HANWELL, but despite searching through my usual sources of London ghostsigns I cannot find any mention of this one. The rest of the sign though is quite clear.

HOUSE FURNISHER

ESTABLISHED OVER 50 YEARS

LOWEST CASH PRICES

EASY TERMS CAN BE ARRANGED

Ghostsign, Mare Street, Hackney, London

When I came across this next building, I assumed that given the tiling and windows that it was a former pub. However after a bit of research it seems to have been the premises of the City of Dublin Bottling Co Ltd.

Former premises of the City of Dublin Bottling Co Ltd., Croston Street, Hackney, London E8

As my walking time, and my legs, were both now running out, I now headed to the Regents Canal for a more direct route back to King's Cross. I'd walked past the former Hackney /Bethnal Green gasworks plenty of times previously but they never cease to impress me. I'm not sure how much longer they will still be in their current state as there seems to be a new, large development on the horizon. It seems like the external structure may be retained in some form, like the ones at King's Cross (see further down this page). It's a bit of a shame but better I guess than losing them completely. For anyone with a thirst to know more about London's lost power stations and gasworks, check out this excellent book by Ben Pedroche.

The Hackney / Bethnal Green gasholders

Heading further along the canal is part of the 2020 controversial art installation by the architect Jaimie Shorten. Controversial because of apparent lack of planning permission. Originally there were 5 sharks in the installation and they were located in a different place in the canal. It seems this is the only one still on display.

Part of the Shark art installation on the Regent's Canal, by architect Jaimie Shorten

And so, as the light was fading and my feet were aching, I finally made it back to King's Cross. As mentioned above, here is one of the preserved / redeveloped gasholders at King's Cross. Again it's a shame they cannot be seen through, but again this is better than them being demolished.

Repurposed gasholder, King's Cross London

Finally, the last picture, at the very end of my wander, a ghostsign in Coaldrop Yard for the COAL OFFICE. This whole area has been massively redeveloped over the past few years, from once was a huge industrial area consisting mainly of disused and unoccupied buildings, to a thriving cultural, eating and shopping district. The majority of the old buildings have been kept in some form or other, which again is pleasing to see. More about the history and dramatic transformation of the King's Cross area in The King's Cross Story, 200 Years of History in the Railway Lands.

Ghostsign for COAL OFFICE in Coaldrop Yard, King's Cross, London

Once again, many thanks for taking time to read my rambling wanders, always In Search of Space.

A short wander around the former factories of Bermondsey

Being fairly new to wandering around Bermondsey in South London, some of the finds on my wanders which inspired me most were the former factories. Although the area was bombed heavily during the second world war, there are a number of factories still standing, although no longer used for their original purpose but instead converted to mostly high-end, residential dwellings.

First up we have the former Hartley's Jam Factory in Green Walk, London SE1. This was built in 1890 and at the height of its use employed over 2,000 workers. Sugar would be delivered to Hartley's own wharf on the Thames from the sugar factory in Silvertown, and fruit was brought in by train from Kent.

The buildings and chimney are still intact, and much of the original signage exists, although I suspect it may have been treated to a fresh coat of paint.

Former Hartley's Jam Factory, Bermondsey, South London SE1

Former Hartley's Jam Factory, Bermondsey, South London SE1

Former Hartley's Jam Factory, Bermondsey, South London SE1

Former Hartley's Jam Factory, Bermondsey, South London SE1

Being unsure whether I should try and negotiate entry with the security staff, I decided to restrict my picture taking to the outside of the complex, which meant unfortunately I could not get any decent pictures of the chimney. The nearest I managed to get were these two, where the chimney is just about visible through the railings, and the vertical lettering can just about be seen.

Former Hartley's Jam Factory, Bermondsey, South London SE1

Former Hartley's Jam Factory, Bermondsey, South London SE1

Next up we have the Pickle Factory, on the site of the former Crosse and Blackwell's factory in Crimscott Street, Bermondsey, SE1, where in its pickling heyday some 2,000 onions were peeled by hand, contributing to both Branston Pickle and Worcestershire Sauce. The factory eventually closed in 1969.

Former Pickle Factory, Crimscott Street, Bermondsey, South London SE1

Former Pickle Factory, Crimscott Street, Bermondsey, South London SE1

And finally in this short post, we have what is probably my favourite of the three, not for the trade it used to deal in, but for the art deco architecture and lettering. The Alaska Factory, on Grange Road, was a fur processing factory that took sealskin deliveries from Canada and Alaska. In world ward two, the factory used sheepskin to make RAF flying suits and linings for flying jackets. The factory was eventually closed in 1960 and converted into apartments.

The white art deco tower below was built in the 1930's and was not part of the original 1869 factory.

Former Alaska Factory, Grange Road, Bermondsey, South London

The original arch with the more recent art deco tower in the background.

Former Alaska Factory, Grange Road, Bermondsey, South London

A slightly more close-up picture of the original 1869 arch, where you can just about make out the seal above the year.

Former Alaska Factory, Grange Road, Bermondsey, South London

Unfortunately I ran out of time to explore the roads around this wonderful piece of architecture as I'm sure they would have revealed even more ... maybe that will have to wait until next time.