An Urban Wander from King's Cross to Hackney and Back Again

 Up in London recently for an evening event, I decided to travel up early to make the most of the day. I didn't have any real plans, other than to pay a visit to Atlantis Records in Hackney to fee my vinyl addiction, and to return to the Parcel Yard in King's Cross for my evening event. So, I decided to walk to Hackney from King's Cross and back again, in a loop of some description. The weather was a bit grey to start with but fortunately it brightened up along the wander. Below you can see a few pictures I took along the way.

First up it's one of my favourite subjects, ghostsigns. This ghostsign can be found over what is now a Nando's, on York Way, just to the north of King's Cross station. Pleasing that the old signage has been left intact. I wonder what sort of REFRESHMENTS it would have provided, perhaps Italian given that it was the Celestino Bertolini refreshment Rooms, which operated from 1916 to the 1960's.

Ghostsign for Celestino Bertolini's Refreshment Rooms, York Way, King's Cross, London

Next up, on the Caledonian Road, we have an old shop sign for SIMMONS DINING ROOMS, with some wonderful, green ceramic tiling either side of the shop front. Still going by the same name, but judging by the signage that can be seen just below the Simmons banner, which reads COCKTAILS DISCO OPEN TIL 3 FRIDAY& SATURDAY, I imagine this is no longer a dining room but more of a trendy cocktail bar.

Old sign for Simmonds Dining Rooms, Caledonian Road, King's Cross, London

As I made my way towards Hackney, I came across another old sign, or ghostsign, for the engineering company, C. LINDLEY & CO., LTD on Englefield Road. According to an old advertisement I found they provided bolts, screws, studs, nuts and pins for the aircraft, motor, shipbuilding and general engineering trades.

Old sign for C. Lindley & Co Ltd., Englefield Road, London N1

Just a bit further along the Englefield Road, on the corner with De Beauvoir Road, is another ghost sign for COLLINS & HAYES, which as far as I can tell was a factory for the production of sofas. If it's the same company then it would appear that they still exist but are now in Nottinghamshire.

Ghostsign for Collins & Hayes, De Beauvoir Road, London N1

There's no doubt as to what purpose the next sign would have served. This is the premises of the former pub THE DE BEAUVIOR ARMS on Stamford Road. Closed for business in 2004 it is now used for residential purposes.

Old sign for the former pub, The De Beauvoir Arms, Stamford Road, London N1

My wander now took me to Dalston, not an area I have really spent much time in previously, but come up with this delight. This is the former building of REEVES & SONS LTD, ARTISTS' COLOUR MANUFACTURER. in Ashwin Street, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

After a quick look around Atlantis records, and picking up a handful of records, I started to make my way back. Ideally I would have liked to spend more time in Hackney but time was not on my side so I probably on scratched the surface. I was pleased however to have spotted this wonderful ghostsign before I left. I can't quite make out the top line, possibly A.HANWELL, but despite searching through my usual sources of London ghostsigns I cannot find any mention of this one. The rest of the sign though is quite clear.

HOUSE FURNISHER

ESTABLISHED OVER 50 YEARS

LOWEST CASH PRICES

EASY TERMS CAN BE ARRANGED

Ghostsign, Mare Street, Hackney, London

When I came across this next building, I assumed that given the tiling and windows that it was a former pub. However after a bit of research it seems to have been the premises of the City of Dublin Bottling Co Ltd.

Former premises of the City of Dublin Bottling Co Ltd., Croston Street, Hackney, London E8

As my walking time, and my legs, were both now running out, I now headed to the Regents Canal for a more direct route back to King's Cross. I'd walked past the former Hackney /Bethnal Green gasworks plenty of times previously but they never cease to impress me. I'm not sure how much longer they will still be in their current state as there seems to be a new, large development on the horizon. It seems like the external structure may be retained in some form, like the ones at King's Cross (see further down this page). It's a bit of a shame but better I guess than losing them completely. For anyone with a thirst to know more about London's lost power stations and gasworks, check out this excellent book by Ben Pedroche.

The Hackney / Bethnal Green gasholders

Heading further along the canal is part of the 2020 controversial art installation by the architect Jaimie Shorten. Controversial because of apparent lack of planning permission. Originally there were 5 sharks in the installation and they were located in a different place in the canal. It seems this is the only one still on display.

Part of the Shark art installation on the Regent's Canal, by architect Jaimie Shorten

And so, as the light was fading and my feet were aching, I finally made it back to King's Cross. As mentioned above, here is one of the preserved / redeveloped gasholders at King's Cross. Again it's a shame they cannot be seen through, but again this is better than them being demolished.

Repurposed gasholder, King's Cross London

Finally, the last picture, at the very end of my wander, a ghostsign in Coaldrop Yard for the COAL OFFICE. This whole area has been massively redeveloped over the past few years, from once was a huge industrial area consisting mainly of disused and unoccupied buildings, to a thriving cultural, eating and shopping district. The majority of the old buildings have been kept in some form or other, which again is pleasing to see. More about the history and dramatic transformation of the King's Cross area in The King's Cross Story, 200 Years of History in the Railway Lands.

Ghostsign for COAL OFFICE in Coaldrop Yard, King's Cross, London

Once again, many thanks for taking time to read my rambling wanders, always In Search of Space.

An Urban Wander from Deptford to Greenwich

 Until recently I'd never really spent any time in Deptford in South London. However, of late, thanks mainly to the wonderful Upsidedown record shop on Deptford High Street, I've made a couple of visits. This blog post features some pictures and commentary from a recent urban wander I did, starting in Deptford, walking along the Thames path to Greenwich.

First up we have Manze's meat pie shop on Deptford High Street. I was immediately drawn to this shop by its wonderful signage. Many shops that have similar signage have long since been re-purposed but it was good to see that Manze's is still an active pie shop, and has been since 1902 apparently.

Manze's Meat Pie Shop, Deptford High Street, South London

Also on, or rather just off, Deptford High Street, are a couple of old signs, pointing people in the direction of the nearest air raid shelters in which to take cover during World War II. The first one looks as though it could still be the original one, although a shame about the 'alteration'. The second has clearly been restored at some stage.

Former air raid shelter sign, Deptford, South London

Former air raid shelter sign, Deptford, South London

As I headed north out of Deptford to the river I came across this wonderful piece of graffiti, 

STEVE NOLLER WEARS FLARES

which is perhaps the ultimate insult, or not.

Graffiti, Deptford, South London

Beyond the graffiti, the road narrowed and turned into a narrow, cobbled street, aptly named Watergate Street, leading to the River Thames.

Watergate Street leading out from Deptford to the River Thames

Although most of November and December 2023 were just grey and wet, I was fortunate enough to be walking on one of  the rare, cold and clear days. As Watergate Street reached its end, it opened out on to the river, affording some impressive views. I always find Canary Wharf quite soulless when I'm there, but seen from a distance it is quite impressive, particularly against the beautiful blue sky.

Canary Wharf as seen across the River Thames from Deptford

Just along the Thames is the former Paynes Paper Wharf building, which is now some sort of design studio. It's hard to make out in this picture but the lettering of its former purpose can just be seen above the arched windows, which incidentally are the only remaining feature of the original building. There are some pictures showing it in various stages of renovation here. 

 The former Paynes Paper Wharf building

As the walk continued along the Thames I came across the southern entrance to the Greenwich foot tunnel, engineered by Alexander Binnie and opened in 1902, which takes pedestrians and bike beneath the river to Island Gardens on the north side.

Southern entrance to the Greenwich foot tunnel

Having been to Greenwich itself many times before, I didn't really stop there but as I reached its eastern edge, I came across the Trafalgar Tavern, looking resplendent with all the flags blowing gently against the backdrop of Canary Wharf in the winter breeze.

The Trafalgar Tavern, Greenwich, South London

Beyond the more commercial part of Greenwich is the former Greenwich power station and its former coal jetty. London's lost power stations have such a rich history, much of which is lost but some still remains for the curious explorer. Inspired by this, and my visit to similar sites such as the Lots Road power station, I bought a book on London's Lost Power Stations and Gasworks, by Ben Pedroche, which I can highly recommend for anyone with a thirst for industrial history.

Former coal jetty at Greenwich power station

Further along the river, beyond Greenwich is the former Harbour Master's Office. 

Former Harbour Master's Office, Greenwich

And finally in this post, a view across the River Thames, taken as the sun was beginning to set.

View across the River Thames from Greenwich

Many thanks for reading this post. Hopefully I will continue to post new material on a more frequent basis than recently.