An Urban Wander from King's Cross to Hackney and Back Again

 Up in London recently for an evening event, I decided to travel up early to make the most of the day. I didn't have any real plans, other than to pay a visit to Atlantis Records in Hackney to fee my vinyl addiction, and to return to the Parcel Yard in King's Cross for my evening event. So, I decided to walk to Hackney from King's Cross and back again, in a loop of some description. The weather was a bit grey to start with but fortunately it brightened up along the wander. Below you can see a few pictures I took along the way.

First up it's one of my favourite subjects, ghostsigns. This ghostsign can be found over what is now a Nando's, on York Way, just to the north of King's Cross station. Pleasing that the old signage has been left intact. I wonder what sort of REFRESHMENTS it would have provided, perhaps Italian given that it was the Celestino Bertolini refreshment Rooms, which operated from 1916 to the 1960's.

Ghostsign for Celestino Bertolini's Refreshment Rooms, York Way, King's Cross, London

Next up, on the Caledonian Road, we have an old shop sign for SIMMONS DINING ROOMS, with some wonderful, green ceramic tiling either side of the shop front. Still going by the same name, but judging by the signage that can be seen just below the Simmons banner, which reads COCKTAILS DISCO OPEN TIL 3 FRIDAY& SATURDAY, I imagine this is no longer a dining room but more of a trendy cocktail bar.

Old sign for Simmonds Dining Rooms, Caledonian Road, King's Cross, London

As I made my way towards Hackney, I came across another old sign, or ghostsign, for the engineering company, C. LINDLEY & CO., LTD on Englefield Road. According to an old advertisement I found they provided bolts, screws, studs, nuts and pins for the aircraft, motor, shipbuilding and general engineering trades.

Old sign for C. Lindley & Co Ltd., Englefield Road, London N1

Just a bit further along the Englefield Road, on the corner with De Beauvoir Road, is another ghost sign for COLLINS & HAYES, which as far as I can tell was a factory for the production of sofas. If it's the same company then it would appear that they still exist but are now in Nottinghamshire.

Ghostsign for Collins & Hayes, De Beauvoir Road, London N1

There's no doubt as to what purpose the next sign would have served. This is the premises of the former pub THE DE BEAUVIOR ARMS on Stamford Road. Closed for business in 2004 it is now used for residential purposes.

Old sign for the former pub, The De Beauvoir Arms, Stamford Road, London N1

My wander now took me to Dalston, not an area I have really spent much time in previously, but come up with this delight. This is the former building of REEVES & SONS LTD, ARTISTS' COLOUR MANUFACTURER. in Ashwin Street, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

Old sign for the former Reeves & Sons Ltd building, Dalston, London E8

After a quick look around Atlantis records, and picking up a handful of records, I started to make my way back. Ideally I would have liked to spend more time in Hackney but time was not on my side so I probably on scratched the surface. I was pleased however to have spotted this wonderful ghostsign before I left. I can't quite make out the top line, possibly A.HANWELL, but despite searching through my usual sources of London ghostsigns I cannot find any mention of this one. The rest of the sign though is quite clear.

HOUSE FURNISHER

ESTABLISHED OVER 50 YEARS

LOWEST CASH PRICES

EASY TERMS CAN BE ARRANGED

Ghostsign, Mare Street, Hackney, London

When I came across this next building, I assumed that given the tiling and windows that it was a former pub. However after a bit of research it seems to have been the premises of the City of Dublin Bottling Co Ltd.

Former premises of the City of Dublin Bottling Co Ltd., Croston Street, Hackney, London E8

As my walking time, and my legs, were both now running out, I now headed to the Regents Canal for a more direct route back to King's Cross. I'd walked past the former Hackney /Bethnal Green gasworks plenty of times previously but they never cease to impress me. I'm not sure how much longer they will still be in their current state as there seems to be a new, large development on the horizon. It seems like the external structure may be retained in some form, like the ones at King's Cross (see further down this page). It's a bit of a shame but better I guess than losing them completely. For anyone with a thirst to know more about London's lost power stations and gasworks, check out this excellent book by Ben Pedroche.

The Hackney / Bethnal Green gasholders

Heading further along the canal is part of the 2020 controversial art installation by the architect Jaimie Shorten. Controversial because of apparent lack of planning permission. Originally there were 5 sharks in the installation and they were located in a different place in the canal. It seems this is the only one still on display.

Part of the Shark art installation on the Regent's Canal, by architect Jaimie Shorten

And so, as the light was fading and my feet were aching, I finally made it back to King's Cross. As mentioned above, here is one of the preserved / redeveloped gasholders at King's Cross. Again it's a shame they cannot be seen through, but again this is better than them being demolished.

Repurposed gasholder, King's Cross London

Finally, the last picture, at the very end of my wander, a ghostsign in Coaldrop Yard for the COAL OFFICE. This whole area has been massively redeveloped over the past few years, from once was a huge industrial area consisting mainly of disused and unoccupied buildings, to a thriving cultural, eating and shopping district. The majority of the old buildings have been kept in some form or other, which again is pleasing to see. More about the history and dramatic transformation of the King's Cross area in The King's Cross Story, 200 Years of History in the Railway Lands.

Ghostsign for COAL OFFICE in Coaldrop Yard, King's Cross, London

Once again, many thanks for taking time to read my rambling wanders, always In Search of Space.

An Urban Wander from Deptford to Greenwich

 Until recently I'd never really spent any time in Deptford in South London. However, of late, thanks mainly to the wonderful Upsidedown record shop on Deptford High Street, I've made a couple of visits. This blog post features some pictures and commentary from a recent urban wander I did, starting in Deptford, walking along the Thames path to Greenwich.

First up we have Manze's meat pie shop on Deptford High Street. I was immediately drawn to this shop by its wonderful signage. Many shops that have similar signage have long since been re-purposed but it was good to see that Manze's is still an active pie shop, and has been since 1902 apparently.

Manze's Meat Pie Shop, Deptford High Street, South London

Also on, or rather just off, Deptford High Street, are a couple of old signs, pointing people in the direction of the nearest air raid shelters in which to take cover during World War II. The first one looks as though it could still be the original one, although a shame about the 'alteration'. The second has clearly been restored at some stage.

Former air raid shelter sign, Deptford, South London

Former air raid shelter sign, Deptford, South London

As I headed north out of Deptford to the river I came across this wonderful piece of graffiti, 

STEVE NOLLER WEARS FLARES

which is perhaps the ultimate insult, or not.

Graffiti, Deptford, South London

Beyond the graffiti, the road narrowed and turned into a narrow, cobbled street, aptly named Watergate Street, leading to the River Thames.

Watergate Street leading out from Deptford to the River Thames

Although most of November and December 2023 were just grey and wet, I was fortunate enough to be walking on one of  the rare, cold and clear days. As Watergate Street reached its end, it opened out on to the river, affording some impressive views. I always find Canary Wharf quite soulless when I'm there, but seen from a distance it is quite impressive, particularly against the beautiful blue sky.

Canary Wharf as seen across the River Thames from Deptford

Just along the Thames is the former Paynes Paper Wharf building, which is now some sort of design studio. It's hard to make out in this picture but the lettering of its former purpose can just be seen above the arched windows, which incidentally are the only remaining feature of the original building. There are some pictures showing it in various stages of renovation here. 

 The former Paynes Paper Wharf building

As the walk continued along the Thames I came across the southern entrance to the Greenwich foot tunnel, engineered by Alexander Binnie and opened in 1902, which takes pedestrians and bike beneath the river to Island Gardens on the north side.

Southern entrance to the Greenwich foot tunnel

Having been to Greenwich itself many times before, I didn't really stop there but as I reached its eastern edge, I came across the Trafalgar Tavern, looking resplendent with all the flags blowing gently against the backdrop of Canary Wharf in the winter breeze.

The Trafalgar Tavern, Greenwich, South London

Beyond the more commercial part of Greenwich is the former Greenwich power station and its former coal jetty. London's lost power stations have such a rich history, much of which is lost but some still remains for the curious explorer. Inspired by this, and my visit to similar sites such as the Lots Road power station, I bought a book on London's Lost Power Stations and Gasworks, by Ben Pedroche, which I can highly recommend for anyone with a thirst for industrial history.

Former coal jetty at Greenwich power station

Further along the river, beyond Greenwich is the former Harbour Master's Office. 

Former Harbour Master's Office, Greenwich

And finally in this post, a view across the River Thames, taken as the sun was beginning to set.

View across the River Thames from Greenwich

Many thanks for reading this post. Hopefully I will continue to post new material on a more frequent basis than recently.

A wander around Abingdon, Oxfordshire (looking for signs old and new)

A different destination for today's wander. Looking to go somewhere different from home, but not travelling too far, we decided to stop off at Abingdon in Oxfordshire for a few hours. Our wander started with a short and muddy walk along the Thames path, which was pleasant enough, but soon we ended up in the town, with scenery more fitting for my blog.

Starting off with what I originally thought was a bit over over-officious policing of the waterway, but then realised it had a more humourous tone to it.

Sign at Abingdon lock, River Thames, Oxfordshire

Sign at Abingdon lock, River Thames, Oxfordshire

In to the town now and pleasing to find not only an old sign / ghost sign on the Oxfam shop, but also two doorway mosaics there too. The sign reads

LANGFORD & SONS CORN & COAL MERCHANTS

Old sign for Langford & Sons Corn & Coal Merchants, Abingdon, Oxfordshire

Doorway mosaic, Abingdon, Oxfordshire

Doorway mosaic, Abingdon, Oxfordshire

Following the doorway mosaic at the Corn and Coal merchants, I found another just a little further down the road. This shop threshold also had some ornate tile work.

Doorway mosaic, Abingdon, Oxfordshire

Ornate tile work, Abingdon, Oxfordshire

Good to see the sign for the FREE LIBRRAY is still in situ, even if the library itself is long gone.

Old sign for former Free Library, Abingdon, Oxfordshire

Old sign for former Free Library, Abingdon, Oxfordshire

A short visit to the town, which we rounded off with a quick visit to the museum. These two pictures are from the roof terrace which is open upon request for a small fee.

View from the rooftop of the Abingdon Museum, Oxfordshire

Zooming in a little and the horizon is pretty much filled with what remains of Didcot Power Station.

Didcot Power Station from the rooftop of the Abingdon Museum, Oxfordshire

That's all for today. Thanks as always for reading. Comments welcome.

A lunchtime wander around Notting Hill, London

For my lunchtime wander today, I decided to drift off towards Holland Park and Notting Hill. Again this is somewhere I've been before but not for a while now, and as with many places I visit there are always either new sights to see and photo, or vistas I have previously missed.

One thing I do particularly like about this area of London is the curved buildings on many of the street corners, mainly I suspect as a result of the roads not being a grid system like some other parts of London.

This first building has all the hall marks of being a pub at one time in its life. From similar buildings I have seen, I can imagine a sign with the pub name at the very top of the building and a list of various ales on the long grey plastered section. It looks like it may have had an entrance too which has now been covered. Worried that I may be completely wrong, I decided to conduct some internet research and came across this wonderful site called Lost Pubs in London which revealed that this indeed used to be a pub, called The Unicorn but has been a residential dwelling for some years now.

The former Unicorn Pub, corner of Princedale Road and Penzance Place, Notting Hill, London

I was also curious about what this building, also in Penzance Place, could have been, but was not able to uncover any information.

Unidentified pink building, Penzance Place, Notting Hill, London

Again I'm quite sure what is now The Cross was something in a former life but despite doing, admittedly only a little, research I was unable to uncover anything on this one either.

The Cross, Portland Road, Notting Hill, London

Fortunately what is now The Cowshed was easier to discover its former function. This was also a former pub, called The Portland Arms.

The former Portland Arms pub, Portland Road, Notting Hill, London

The area in and around Clarendon Cross has some wonderful shop fronts or which these are only a couple.

L Maison shopfront, Clarendon Cross, Notting Hill, London

Summerill and Bishop, shopfront, Clarendon Cross, Notting Hill, London

This area also boasts something of a more industrial past, with a pottery and this former brick works, now a residential dwelling. The name of the building is clear to see, but look about half-way down and there are also the words BUILDERS and CONTRACTORS in the brickwork.

The former Clarendon brick works, Notting Hill, London

The former Clarendon brick works, Notting Hill, London

As I made my way back down Portland Road, I spotted this old shop sign above a restaurant, for James Bricknell, decorators.

Old sign, Portland Road, Notting Hill, London

Finally on this wander, I found this wonderful, and very much in use, butchers. 

Lidgate butchers, Holland Park Avenue, London

It's hard to make out in this picture but the LIDGATE is actually a mosaic.

Mosaic, Lidgate butchers, Holland Park Avenue, London

A lunchtime wander around Brackenbury Village, London

It's all too easy to allow work to overtake my intentions, and once again this has happened in terms of finding time to dedicate to this blog. Admittedly it's only a couple of weeks this time, unlike the months of absence I saw last year, but I had intended to blog at least weekly. Last week was manic at work, but fortunately I did manage to escape the office one lunchtime when I was up in London. I must have walked pretty much everywhere within a lunch time's walking distance from the office, so decided to re-visit somewhere I'd not been for a while ... Brackenbury. Brackenbury is essentially a London village, situated between Hammersmith and Ravenscourt Park. Despite being situated between some fairly major roads, it still has a village-like feel, although some of what I assume used to be village shops are now tastefully converted into residential or business premises, rather than being boarded-up and run down, which would almost certainly be the case in some of the neighbouring areas.

I've performed a quick internet search but couldn't find any information to suggest what these buildings used to be.

Brackenbury Village, London

They are however beautifully preserved, or should that be restored?

Brackenbury Village, London

Even the Christmas trees are stacked neatly, on a spotless street, awaiting collection.

Brackenbury Village, London

Brackenbury Village, London

This was the only building that I had any success in determining it's former purpose, which was apparently a bakery. I was hoping that what appears to be two ghost signs on the building would reveal more, but unfortunately any lettering is long gone.

Former bakery, Brackenbury Village, London

Ghost signs on the former bakery, Brackenbury Village, London

Continuing on my loop, to the eastern edge of Brackenbury, I came across again what I assume was a shop at one time, on Hammersmith Grove, with it's original sign maintained.

Former shop, Hammersmith Grove, Brackenbury Village, London

These lovely Hindustan Ambassadors were a surprise. Beautifully restores and now part of Karma Kabs.

Hindustan Ambassadors, Brackenbury Village, London

This building has all the signs of having been a pub, but again I can't find any information.

Former pub(?), Brackenbury Village, London

One of the striking features about Brackenbury Village was the tiling that many of the houses displayed.

Brackenbury Village, London

Now a pilates studio, I wonder what this building was previously. The ghost sign above the door is more readable than on the bakery but still not quite readable enough to be able to decipher.

Ghost sign, Brackenbury Village, London

Having spotted a few books on London Villages, I think I'll do some research over the next few remaining weeks of winter, and when the evenings become longer maybe start exploring some new places.

    

Thanks, as always, for reading. Comments welcome and appreciated.